Clearing Customs, or Not

The daylight can still bring some darkness. This Captain and The Kid were worn to fatigue from the all night crossing of the Gulf Stream. We tied off and prepared to clear customs in Bimini.

Douglas from customs approached our sloop with a warm greetings and welcome to the Bahamas. Douglas was very helpful. He checked our lines to be certain we were secure.

"Some come from all night and don' tie so well." He explained.

Douglas assured us we could rest and he would do the leg work for us to clear. He very thoughtfully reminded this Captain to hoist our yellow quarantine flag and that only the captain would be allowed ashore until the boat is cleared. He collected a $15 per person fee to begin our paperwork. He said that this would get all the necessary clearing work done and ready for me when I could make it to the customs office.

"I thought the $15 was for each person over four people?" The Kid inquired.

"It is. Dis jus' be gettin' de entry fees goin'."

Douglas was very courteous and somewhat apologetic for the confusion about fees. Fees are always changing. It is good to check ahead so you know what flags you need, how much clearing and cruising permits are, and any regulations or documentation changes or requirements.

We were very tired. The crossing and the near miss encounter drained us. It was day now. The light of day, however does not always enlighten the weary to be wary. More than an hour went by and Douglas had not returned. I went ashore to the customs office to look for him and to see if there had been a problem with clearing us. What I found is that Douglas did not exist.

"We have no Douglas working here." I was informed.

"What about the 30 bucks we gave him?"

"There is no Douglas. There is no 30 dollars." Replied the uniformed customs officer.

I gave a description of Douglas to the officer. He very slightly smiled for what I took as he knew Douglas' true identity. I also took it as we were out $30. I completed the clearing of our sloop and got back on board so we could get out into the bay, anchor and get some needed sleep. We were here to enjoy the island. It is a small island. We will, eventually, encounter Douglas.

"You won't get the 30 back, ya know."

"I know, but for 30 bucks he owes us something. That I will get."

"You'll never see the guy."

"It's a small place. I'll ask around by his M.O. Someone will know."

I took down the yellow flag and hoisted the Bahamian courtesy flag (cruising pennant). We were here to getaway. Escapes are made up of varied and interesting elements and encounters. Maybe Douglas had earned his 30 bucks after all.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ish-Meal-at-Sea

Bimini Rising in the East

The island disappeared.

We had come through the night across the Gulf Stream from Key Largo, Florida. When the sun rises on the water it is not only a spectacular display of artistic awe, but also a relief embraced by soul and spirit. The night blends both romance and suspense with a certain measure of tension, depending on the weather. The sunrise over the Atlantic washing across the Gulf Stream is an eraser of uncertainty and a harbinger of a great getaway just ahead.

We had raised Bimini off our starboard bow. An island rising is exciting. It begins slowly with tops. Tops of trees, tops of buildings, and tops of hillsides. Soon more rises from the water and land appears. Many times you can smell land before you can see it. It is a good smell. It is a mix of ground, trees, grasses, sometimes aromas from foods, and life that is of the land, both human and animal. Sometimes you can identify certain smells as earthy and sometimes it is the smell where land and sea meet. The sea can smell differently along the shore than at great depths and has to do with the mixing of salt and sand, seaweed, sea life, and sea-moistened land.

Rising in the east was Bimini. Our Getaway just ahead. Then more suddenly than it rose, it disappeared in a squall. Tropical weather comes quickly. You can see it coming, and you can brace for it, but usually you cannot out run it, especially in a sail boat.

"Where did it go?" The Kid called out, searching for the land that had been just ahead of us.

"Dunno. There was something of a wreck to starboard. The water was breaking over there." I pointed.

This Captain and The Kid have been through squalls before. But during this one we were just coming onto the Bahama Bank. The water depth can change quickly, and thus dangerously shallow. I kept close watch on our depth finder, because we could not see the water in front of us to read any color changes.

"Can you see any break in this?"

The clouds were dropping rain very hard and the winds had stirred the sea and the air together so reading the clouds was impossible. It was best to just hold course. If the squall would pass as quickly as it came upon us we would be OK.

"120 feet" I called to The Kid. " We're a little north. The wind has pushed us out some."

"Hey! It's letting up!"

Just as The Kid spoke those words we had sun and rain; then sun and watched the squall roll toward Florida. Bimini popped up right in front us. The Kid rushed to the bow and began taking visual readings.

"There's the bottom!" The Kid cried out. "What's our depth!"

The bottom came up from the depths very fast. It took me by surprise and at first I was not sure if the depth finder reading was accurate because the bottom was clear like when you are in swimming depth. I tapped at the depth finder.

"It says 50 feet."

As we came into Bimini the depth finder proved accurate as the reading kept showing the depths to be more shallow. We pulled into the pier to clear customs and to begin the Bimini part of our escape. Almost immediately the fun began, but that for next time.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Theyre-stealin-The-Water

The Land Drifting North--Part 3

The sky and the sea at night are lost to a darkness unlike the darkness of land. When it is very dark the horizon becomes very close and moves ahead of you differently than the daytime horizon.

The Captain and The Kid had been watching what seemed like land drifting northward. With The Kid's keen eyesight, we determined that the land was at least two large ships moving north and possibly intersecting our course eastward. The speed of the two and the distance between them gave me the idea to split the two and pass between the vessels. As we were adjusting sail and increasing horsepower to motor sail our passage The Kid caught something white flash in the black space where we would make our way.

"I saw it too. What is that?"

We knew it could not be rocks because the first vessel passed right over that course. We had now both seen some flash of white or reflection like breakwater.

The odd stories about the Bermuda Triangle are not stories this Captain pays much heed to. We have had odd occurrences while sailing these waters, but odd will often come with being on the ocean. The ocean is different travel than land travel. Every moment can be its own escape with its own adventure. Getting away by sea gets you away to an escape from the moment you cast off, or haul anchor, if not before. The water beneath you is always moving, thus it has been somewhere and is going to other places. On the water you become like the water in how and why you move about. It is not just about a destination, each moment becomes its own unique destination, especially when you watch the water color change, or feel its thickness, and visit with its inhabitants. The sea is about romance and passion and escape.

We luffed the main and throttled down instinctively while staring into the black space before us between the two large vessels. Our radio crackled a voice we could not understand, then static, so we turned it down. We need to watch and maneuver without distraction or error for what may be dead ahead.

"There!" The Kid hollered above the deafening of the silent darkness.

I brought our sloop hard-a-port and then again. The blackness was not space. The blackness was part of the vessel. We had not been watching two very large ships. This was one! We do not know its length or the type of vessel. It was like a container ship and barge in one. Either end was tall like freighters, but in between was quite low and all dark like a barge. We knew if The Kid had not seen that something we would have hit and been damaged or sunk. A faster boat making the same mistake would have collided for sure. There are stories about fishing vessels hitting freighters and barges at night with fatal consequences.

As the large vessel crawled by us there was no noticeable life, nor any acknowledgment it saw us. It just kept steaming north. We floated for a few minutes. Our Perkins diesel was idling, but our hearts were up around 5500 rpm.

"That was so close." The Kid whispered with a hissing on the s of close, not meant to be heard, but just to express, letting pressure out.

I inhaled deeply, not remembering if I had been breathing, but knowing I was empty and all my muscles were hard with tension.

When you getaway to escape, it is always crucial to keep what's real nearby in case you need it in an emergency. It would not take long for us to recover, to continue our getaway to the Bahamas and to escape among the islands and the people. At landfall, night or morn, we would break out the sundowners and lay back on board to recall our safe passage through the lower quadrant of the Bermuda Triangle.

Oh, yes, after the ship went by our radio and GPS came back. Our friend astern caught up to us in port.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Boat-Problems-in-Sarasota

The Land Drifting North -- Part 2

The night at sea is a different sea. This Captain and The Kid watched the land drifting north. We were too far west to see Andros and too south for Bimini. What we were seeing was massive and it began to appear to be on a course where we could possibly intersect.

The Bermuda Triangle stories we have all read make for good reading if that kind of stuff appeals to you. Yes we were in the quote, Triangle. The Kid climbed up the mast to get a better visual. "Anything on radar?" came the question from the darkness shrouding the mast.

"Nothing. It looks like land, but its gotta be a couple of vessels."

"Looks like maybe two or three big ships. That's my guess anyhow."

Off the mast, The Kid pointed to the horizon. "See there, there, and maybe there. Three big ships, or two huge ones."

Our concern was the seeming erratic course the vessels were following. We knew it best to give way no matter the maritime laws that govern maneuvers at sea. Our traveling friends behind us had now caught sight of our mast and asked if we had picked up radar to our east.

"Nothing on radar yet, but we think there are few ships out there we need to watch carefully."

As we continued on course, it was clear that what we saw were two large vessels. The first was quite a distance in front of the other and moving faster. We could consider passing to the south of the first vessel and before the second one. The distance appeared to be safe to try this and then our friend behind could sail by after the second ship went by. The two vessels changed course again and it seemed we would have to consider sailing between them or tack way south and fight the stream.

When you are sailing at night the charts remind you about faraway places where you can escape to. They take some of the uncertainty and edginess of the night and put in mind why you are crossing at night. Soon the sun will rise and so will a nearby island. There is excitement and romance in a crossing. Escaping to the Bahamas is always a good escape. Usually, the crossing is good and uneventful, but this night was a good reminder about the need to not lose touch with real on your way to make believe.

"We lost the radio." The Kid said with some nervousness.

"GPS too. What's goin' on?"

Our compass, GPS, and radio were all down or improperly operating. The Triangle thoughts came back as we watched the vessels. The one was now to port and the second well to the south but on the same course. Could these two ships be the cause for our navigational problems? Our radio crackled, but we couldn't discern the words. It sounded like our friend off our stern. By now he must see the ships.

"Let's split the two. We have the speed and the distance."

"Wait." The Kid replied. "Wait."

The Kid had noticed something. It was a flash or reflection, or just a hunch, but it was important to look ahead with strained attention.

"There!" The Kid pointed.

Some water disturbance, maybe from the Gulf Stream, flashed some white water onto the black between the ships. What was revealed is the stuff nightmares are made of.

Next time, what we saw off our bow.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Good-Heart-Tough-World

Why is That Land Drifting North

Nighttime at sea is dark in so very many ways. The Captain and The Kid had caught the Gulf Stream low. This is the better way to cross to the Bahama Banks when under sail, or even while motor-sailing. You catch the Stream and ride it north until your exit. We decided to get off in Bimini.

"What happened to the sun?" The Kid asked.

"Not sure. Last time I saw it, it was heading west."

So, there we were, in the dark, on the ocean. No problem. GPS is working fine. Next stop Bimini. We were in some contact with a cruiser out from sight behind us. They were beginning their crossing from Marathon, and we had chosen Key Largo. Marathon can be better in that you can run more east and south before the turn north. From Key Largo, you head more south at first depending on horsepower and how much you are sailing vs motoring and where you plan to clear customs.

We took a call on the radio. By location and direction we were sure it was for us.

"Sailing vessel. Are you crossing to the Bahamas?"

"We are." The Kid handled the response.

"We see your light now and then just at the horizon. Good to have this company as we cross."

"We don't see you," The Kid replied, "but good to have you with us. We will watch for you."

In the dark a light is good to see, even if it is distant. We could not see our traveling friend. As it turned out, their sloop was smaller and the mast shorter than ours. The night got darker as we began to turn more north. Stars flickered as they darted in and out of clouds. The water was black. At night it looks thicker.

"Is that land?" The Kid pointed to the east.

It did not seem possible we could be seeing land already. But there was a row of lights in the distance that appeared to be land. Then there was a dark section and another row of lights. It seemed that we were too far south for Andros and too far west to see other islands. As I tried to peer through the darkness, I also tried to keep my mind in focus. At night your mind can be tricked. Add to it that The Captain has a mind that drifts some day and night and enjoys the tricks our eyes play with us. Something was becoming clear. This land mass was moving north.

"Is that land moving?" I asked The Kid to be sure it wasn't me drifting.

The Kid confirmed what we were seeing was moving north. This was an awkward feeling. At sea, movement is something you need to get used to. There are times when you think you are moving and you are not. Other things around you are. Then, there are times when other things are still and you are moving and did not realize it. This kind of perception is what can add to the whole idea about escaping that the sea can provide. You can always be on the move, going other places even when in reality, you are standing still.

As this Captain and The Kid watched the floating land drift north, we wondered about the stories we had read about the Bermuda Triangle. Yes, we were in the more southern part of it, but stories about floating land are ones we had not read.

The darkness grew more dark as the clouds thickened. Light from the stars would have been helpful to try to make out where this floating land was heading and if we were going to intersect with it.

"What's going on out there." Our night friend radioed.

Soon it would be clear what we were seeing that night on the Gulf Stream.
Next time more about the Land drifting north.

The Captain and The Kid
also see: http://hubpages.com/hub/Defragging-a-Good-Heart

Venice by Candlelight

Rum on the rocks is good. Sloop on the rocks is bad. We had committed to Venice inlet. There was enough light. You go in through a narrow mouth between a north and south jetty. The jetties are lined with fishermen, tourists, and others who gather for a sunset, a beer, some talking with friends, and boat watching.

You do not want to make a mistake as you come in this inlet. The rocks are close by. We decided to swing around and take another look at the entrance and our charts. The water at the entrance was a little choppy as it swirled around. The wind was out of the south and the tide was going out, so we needed to be sure we could make a clean run in and not be pushed to the north and against the rocks.

Venice is a nice little place to visit, especially by water. It is on the west coast of Florida between Tampa Bay and Charlotte Harbor. The Ringling Circus made its home here and Venice has held onto a certain charm combining old with new. The best thing they have done is to keep some fishing village thinking intact. You can golf, swim, collect shark's teeth at a beach world-famous for shark's teeth collecting, but the feeling of Florida fishing village lingers. The fishing? It is good along the jetties, the beaches, and off the pier. There a few good seafood places close to where you come in from the Gulf of Mexico, and a few of them you can tie up next to, hop off your boat and you're there.

As we turned to make our run in, a speed boat rushed by on our starboard and his wake pushed us to port toward the north jetty. The kid driving the boat looked like he was 12. He acted like he was 2.

The Kid picked up a fender to throw at him, but knew we need those fenders once inside.

I made a turn and we bumped something deep as we turned. It didn't sound like we scraped along rocks but it was a thud and didn't sound good. The Kid went below to look around.

"No holes! I don't see anything. I don't see... Hey! The lights are out."

"Whattaya mean?"

"We lost our cabin lights. Do you have lights on deck?"

"We've lost our electric."

No lights and now the sun had slipped into some clouds on the horizon and our daylight was all but gone.

"Should we try to go in?"

"We can't go up the coast without running lights."

A few fisherman had lanterns on on either side of the channel. Straight in and off to starboard a restaurant was flickering with candlelight in their windows for a romantic by the water meal for their patrons. That was enough. In we went. Lanterns port and starboard and candlelight off the bow.

This little town had become even more charming as we sailed right in through its inlet, and over to a nice little dockage, all by candlelight. We tied off and as we did, another pass by the 2 year old driving the speed boat, and not obeying the 'No Wake' signs, pushed his wake at us and drove our port bow against the pier. We bumped it hard and our lights came back on.

The next day we will check underwater for damage, take a look at the electric and get her ready for sailing up the coast. For now? Some Chianti and a candlelight dinner on deck and we'll probably tip the waiter who lit the candles in the restaurant window.

The Captain and The Kid

More: http://hubpages.com/hub/Turtle-Soup-But-Not-What-You-Think

Getting Losta on Cayo Costa

Cayo Costa sounds like a musical, whimsical place to go to get lost for a day or two or three or more. It really can be that place. You can't drive to it. It is an island. As the gull flies its not far from Ft Myers, Fl, and tourists doing tourist, but on the island it can be as far away as you like it to be.

This near-away island is nine miles of beautiful beaches. Surviving from hurricane Charley are pines, oak-palm hammocks, and mangrove swamps. Charley sucker punched this state park paradise with 145 mph winds in '04, but you can't keep beauty down when beauty is what is does best, so Cayo Costa remains a good getaway not faraway.

Lore and tale, some stretched to the outer reefs of imagination (not that there's anything wrong with that) tell the intrigue of the mythical (or not) pirate Gasparilla. Fact, or fiction says he built a fort on the island in the late 1700s and used it as a refuge after he plundered merchant ships sailing out in the Gulf waters. When his pirating days ended his fortune scattered up and down this coast around the waters of Charlotte Harbor. Wild pirates to beware of have given way to wild boars who roam freely. They can be as nasty and ornery as any pirate so watch out and don't irritate them. Are there snakes, alligators, bobcats, and raccoons, as tales are told? Yes to raccoons and probably to the others but The Captain and The Kid did not encounter any critters other than the racoons on this stopover.

We anchored behind the island in Pelican Bay. You come in from Charlotte Harbor through Pelican Pass. This can be tricky. The sand shifts, so while one time its a straight shot in; another time, like when we sailed in, you have to hug the shore. As we came in we were so close to one guy who was already grilling off his stern that I checked his fish as we went by and let him know it was time to flip his fillets.

Cayo Costa is a good place to escape. The Kid rowed around to bird watch. The trees were filled with up close varieties of all types including ospreys and egrets. This Captain stayed on board and watched daytime give way to sunset. I could not see the sun slip into the water, but watched as it changed the island. The sunset rays and colors scattered through the trees and across the sand and along the path on-shore from where I watched. Usually we see the sunset away from us, but not this night in this location. This day the sunset came ashore. Gaspar may have left his treasure buried and submerged, but the sun brought its treasure to put on display for all to be enriched by. I began to realize my foot was tapping to an unheard, but certainly an experienced, symphony of light orchestrated by day turning to night across a near-away place faraway where escape is encouraged.

Escape can come by getting away from what is common, but it also can come by way of what we at times take for granted when we view it from a new, or renewed perspective. There was no need to go to other places this evening. There was no place but this place to escape to.

The Captain and The Kid

More:

http://hubpages.com/hub/Talking-to-Birds-at-Sea