Clearing Customs, or Not

The daylight can still bring some darkness. This Captain and The Kid were worn to fatigue from the all night crossing of the Gulf Stream. We tied off and prepared to clear customs in Bimini.

Douglas from customs approached our sloop with a warm greetings and welcome to the Bahamas. Douglas was very helpful. He checked our lines to be certain we were secure.

"Some come from all night and don' tie so well." He explained.

Douglas assured us we could rest and he would do the leg work for us to clear. He very thoughtfully reminded this Captain to hoist our yellow quarantine flag and that only the captain would be allowed ashore until the boat is cleared. He collected a $15 per person fee to begin our paperwork. He said that this would get all the necessary clearing work done and ready for me when I could make it to the customs office.

"I thought the $15 was for each person over four people?" The Kid inquired.

"It is. Dis jus' be gettin' de entry fees goin'."

Douglas was very courteous and somewhat apologetic for the confusion about fees. Fees are always changing. It is good to check ahead so you know what flags you need, how much clearing and cruising permits are, and any regulations or documentation changes or requirements.

We were very tired. The crossing and the near miss encounter drained us. It was day now. The light of day, however does not always enlighten the weary to be wary. More than an hour went by and Douglas had not returned. I went ashore to the customs office to look for him and to see if there had been a problem with clearing us. What I found is that Douglas did not exist.

"We have no Douglas working here." I was informed.

"What about the 30 bucks we gave him?"

"There is no Douglas. There is no 30 dollars." Replied the uniformed customs officer.

I gave a description of Douglas to the officer. He very slightly smiled for what I took as he knew Douglas' true identity. I also took it as we were out $30. I completed the clearing of our sloop and got back on board so we could get out into the bay, anchor and get some needed sleep. We were here to enjoy the island. It is a small island. We will, eventually, encounter Douglas.

"You won't get the 30 back, ya know."

"I know, but for 30 bucks he owes us something. That I will get."

"You'll never see the guy."

"It's a small place. I'll ask around by his M.O. Someone will know."

I took down the yellow flag and hoisted the Bahamian courtesy flag (cruising pennant). We were here to getaway. Escapes are made up of varied and interesting elements and encounters. Maybe Douglas had earned his 30 bucks after all.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ish-Meal-at-Sea

Bimini Rising in the East

The island disappeared.

We had come through the night across the Gulf Stream from Key Largo, Florida. When the sun rises on the water it is not only a spectacular display of artistic awe, but also a relief embraced by soul and spirit. The night blends both romance and suspense with a certain measure of tension, depending on the weather. The sunrise over the Atlantic washing across the Gulf Stream is an eraser of uncertainty and a harbinger of a great getaway just ahead.

We had raised Bimini off our starboard bow. An island rising is exciting. It begins slowly with tops. Tops of trees, tops of buildings, and tops of hillsides. Soon more rises from the water and land appears. Many times you can smell land before you can see it. It is a good smell. It is a mix of ground, trees, grasses, sometimes aromas from foods, and life that is of the land, both human and animal. Sometimes you can identify certain smells as earthy and sometimes it is the smell where land and sea meet. The sea can smell differently along the shore than at great depths and has to do with the mixing of salt and sand, seaweed, sea life, and sea-moistened land.

Rising in the east was Bimini. Our Getaway just ahead. Then more suddenly than it rose, it disappeared in a squall. Tropical weather comes quickly. You can see it coming, and you can brace for it, but usually you cannot out run it, especially in a sail boat.

"Where did it go?" The Kid called out, searching for the land that had been just ahead of us.

"Dunno. There was something of a wreck to starboard. The water was breaking over there." I pointed.

This Captain and The Kid have been through squalls before. But during this one we were just coming onto the Bahama Bank. The water depth can change quickly, and thus dangerously shallow. I kept close watch on our depth finder, because we could not see the water in front of us to read any color changes.

"Can you see any break in this?"

The clouds were dropping rain very hard and the winds had stirred the sea and the air together so reading the clouds was impossible. It was best to just hold course. If the squall would pass as quickly as it came upon us we would be OK.

"120 feet" I called to The Kid. " We're a little north. The wind has pushed us out some."

"Hey! It's letting up!"

Just as The Kid spoke those words we had sun and rain; then sun and watched the squall roll toward Florida. Bimini popped up right in front us. The Kid rushed to the bow and began taking visual readings.

"There's the bottom!" The Kid cried out. "What's our depth!"

The bottom came up from the depths very fast. It took me by surprise and at first I was not sure if the depth finder reading was accurate because the bottom was clear like when you are in swimming depth. I tapped at the depth finder.

"It says 50 feet."

As we came into Bimini the depth finder proved accurate as the reading kept showing the depths to be more shallow. We pulled into the pier to clear customs and to begin the Bimini part of our escape. Almost immediately the fun began, but that for next time.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Theyre-stealin-The-Water

The Land Drifting North -- Part 2

The night at sea is a different sea. This Captain and The Kid watched the land drifting north. We were too far west to see Andros and too south for Bimini. What we were seeing was massive and it began to appear to be on a course where we could possibly intersect.

The Bermuda Triangle stories we have all read make for good reading if that kind of stuff appeals to you. Yes we were in the quote, Triangle. The Kid climbed up the mast to get a better visual. "Anything on radar?" came the question from the darkness shrouding the mast.

"Nothing. It looks like land, but its gotta be a couple of vessels."

"Looks like maybe two or three big ships. That's my guess anyhow."

Off the mast, The Kid pointed to the horizon. "See there, there, and maybe there. Three big ships, or two huge ones."

Our concern was the seeming erratic course the vessels were following. We knew it best to give way no matter the maritime laws that govern maneuvers at sea. Our traveling friends behind us had now caught sight of our mast and asked if we had picked up radar to our east.

"Nothing on radar yet, but we think there are few ships out there we need to watch carefully."

As we continued on course, it was clear that what we saw were two large vessels. The first was quite a distance in front of the other and moving faster. We could consider passing to the south of the first vessel and before the second one. The distance appeared to be safe to try this and then our friend behind could sail by after the second ship went by. The two vessels changed course again and it seemed we would have to consider sailing between them or tack way south and fight the stream.

When you are sailing at night the charts remind you about faraway places where you can escape to. They take some of the uncertainty and edginess of the night and put in mind why you are crossing at night. Soon the sun will rise and so will a nearby island. There is excitement and romance in a crossing. Escaping to the Bahamas is always a good escape. Usually, the crossing is good and uneventful, but this night was a good reminder about the need to not lose touch with real on your way to make believe.

"We lost the radio." The Kid said with some nervousness.

"GPS too. What's goin' on?"

Our compass, GPS, and radio were all down or improperly operating. The Triangle thoughts came back as we watched the vessels. The one was now to port and the second well to the south but on the same course. Could these two ships be the cause for our navigational problems? Our radio crackled, but we couldn't discern the words. It sounded like our friend off our stern. By now he must see the ships.

"Let's split the two. We have the speed and the distance."

"Wait." The Kid replied. "Wait."

The Kid had noticed something. It was a flash or reflection, or just a hunch, but it was important to look ahead with strained attention.

"There!" The Kid pointed.

Some water disturbance, maybe from the Gulf Stream, flashed some white water onto the black between the ships. What was revealed is the stuff nightmares are made of.

Next time, what we saw off our bow.

The Captain and The Kid

http://hubpages.com/hub/Good-Heart-Tough-World

Why is That Land Drifting North

Nighttime at sea is dark in so very many ways. The Captain and The Kid had caught the Gulf Stream low. This is the better way to cross to the Bahama Banks when under sail, or even while motor-sailing. You catch the Stream and ride it north until your exit. We decided to get off in Bimini.

"What happened to the sun?" The Kid asked.

"Not sure. Last time I saw it, it was heading west."

So, there we were, in the dark, on the ocean. No problem. GPS is working fine. Next stop Bimini. We were in some contact with a cruiser out from sight behind us. They were beginning their crossing from Marathon, and we had chosen Key Largo. Marathon can be better in that you can run more east and south before the turn north. From Key Largo, you head more south at first depending on horsepower and how much you are sailing vs motoring and where you plan to clear customs.

We took a call on the radio. By location and direction we were sure it was for us.

"Sailing vessel. Are you crossing to the Bahamas?"

"We are." The Kid handled the response.

"We see your light now and then just at the horizon. Good to have this company as we cross."

"We don't see you," The Kid replied, "but good to have you with us. We will watch for you."

In the dark a light is good to see, even if it is distant. We could not see our traveling friend. As it turned out, their sloop was smaller and the mast shorter than ours. The night got darker as we began to turn more north. Stars flickered as they darted in and out of clouds. The water was black. At night it looks thicker.

"Is that land?" The Kid pointed to the east.

It did not seem possible we could be seeing land already. But there was a row of lights in the distance that appeared to be land. Then there was a dark section and another row of lights. It seemed that we were too far south for Andros and too far west to see other islands. As I tried to peer through the darkness, I also tried to keep my mind in focus. At night your mind can be tricked. Add to it that The Captain has a mind that drifts some day and night and enjoys the tricks our eyes play with us. Something was becoming clear. This land mass was moving north.

"Is that land moving?" I asked The Kid to be sure it wasn't me drifting.

The Kid confirmed what we were seeing was moving north. This was an awkward feeling. At sea, movement is something you need to get used to. There are times when you think you are moving and you are not. Other things around you are. Then, there are times when other things are still and you are moving and did not realize it. This kind of perception is what can add to the whole idea about escaping that the sea can provide. You can always be on the move, going other places even when in reality, you are standing still.

As this Captain and The Kid watched the floating land drift north, we wondered about the stories we had read about the Bermuda Triangle. Yes, we were in the more southern part of it, but stories about floating land are ones we had not read.

The darkness grew more dark as the clouds thickened. Light from the stars would have been helpful to try to make out where this floating land was heading and if we were going to intersect with it.

"What's going on out there." Our night friend radioed.

Soon it would be clear what we were seeing that night on the Gulf Stream.
Next time more about the Land drifting north.

The Captain and The Kid
also see: http://hubpages.com/hub/Defragging-a-Good-Heart

Stars on the Water

We are still stuck in Marathon. Not a bad place to be stuck but we are still trying to get to Sarasota. A couple of places on Siesta Key we need to check out. More on that later.
Went back to Keys Fisheries for more peel-and-eat Pink Gold. The sun nearing the horizon reminded The Captain again about an unforgettable scene anchored along the edge of the Northwest Channel just out of Chub Cay. The polishing of north Bimini event took too much of our getaway early daylight we had hoped to bank for use later so we could make the run from Bimini to Chub before dark. Many places on the Bahama Bank, and coming into Chub is one of them, can be tricky to treacherous especially when your drawing 5 feet and it is dark.
Bimini is a great place to fish! The Northwest Channel is good too. Chub Cay, though, has a huge reputation for "world class fishing" that can stand on its own to measure up to the reputation Bimini has established from the Hemingway days of fishing in the Stream. The marina, which is only 35 miles west of Nassau and 125 miles from South Florida by boat, formerly had 96 slips. Now it is being rebuilt to accommodate more and larger vessels. The channel in has been dredged to 12 feet.
Transient rates are $4.75 per foot per day during peak season, and $2.75 during the off season (July 16 through November 14). Water is .40 per gallon.
Mostly this is a touristy place and has gathered to it some real attitudes that can make a true escape there a real challenge. Its not for every kind of tourist. Its for the boats from the States type. This remains, however, a good stopover before you cross the Tongue if heading east.
When this Captain and The Kid headed to Chub just ahead of its big bucks rebuild, it was good for escape. The few full-time residents we spent time with were genuine island-timers, not the faux island time that motors in to the newly constructed marina to pose as escapers and pretend that they are on a getaway.
We couldn't make the run before nightfall, so we anchored out. We hung as close as we could to the edge of the Northwest Channel. We planned to do watches throughout the night to keep an eye on our position and watch for vessels traveling through the night. The sunset was awesome, but as the night set in an extraordinary combination of just the right conditions developed.
Stars began to be visible. Time passed. The sea became very calm. More stars filled the night sky. Time passed and soon the stars were reflecting on the water. As you looked out across the watery expanse toward the horizon the sky shared its stars with the ocean. Just the right view across the Channel and the horizon did not exist. There was no clear distinction between the sky and the sea, both were filled with stars.
The Captain has seen something similar to this before, but that one night on the way to Chub Cay, anchored out in the Northwest Channel, would always remain as a place of escape to go to on any given starry night thereafter.
Take places you have been with you when you go, so whenever you need to or have to, you can go there in the twinkling of a star.

The Captain and The Kid